{"id":2517,"date":"2026-02-11T14:04:31","date_gmt":"2026-02-11T13:04:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/clearorg.eu\/?p=2517"},"modified":"2026-02-11T14:04:31","modified_gmt":"2026-02-11T13:04:31","slug":"cosmetic-exfoliant-regulation-aha-bha-pha-eu-uk-usa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/clearorg.eu\/en\/cosmetic-exfoliant-regulation-aha-bha-pha-eu-uk-usa\/","title":{"rendered":"Exfoliants in cosmetics – what do the regulations say?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hydroxy acids<\/strong>, including AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs<\/strong>, are exfoliating agents<\/strong> that have been widely used in cosmetic formulations for several decades to improve skin texture and radiance. Their well-established efficacy goes hand in hand with sensitivity safety considerations<\/strong> (irritation, photosensitisation) and regulatory approaches that vary by region.<\/p>\n

This article reviews the regulatory frameworks in the European Union, the United Kingdom, and the United States, <\/strong>with the aim of providing a clearer understanding of these issues.<\/p>\n

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What’s behind these acronyms?<\/strong><\/h4>\n

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AHAs<\/strong> are the most common. The term refers to Alpha-Hydroxy Acids <\/strong>and includes, in particular, glycolic acid<\/strong> and lactic acid<\/strong>. They are water-soluble and therefore act primarily on the skin’s surface, where they exfoliate the outermost layer of the epidermis and promote cell renewal.<\/p>\n

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Within the BHA<\/strong> (Beta Hydroxy Acids<\/strong>) family, the principal compound is salicylic acid<\/strong>. These are lipid-soluble and can penetrate the skin’s pores, which contributes to their exfoliating, comedolytic, and “anti-inflammatory\u201d properties.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Finally, PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids) <\/strong>include gluconic acid, gluconolactone,<\/strong> and lactobionic acid<\/strong>. They act as humectants by binding water in the epidermis, thereby enhancing hydration. They also provide similar effects to those of AHAs.<\/p>\n

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What the texts say….<\/strong><\/h4>\n

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AHA<\/strong><\/h5>\n

In the European Union<\/u><\/p>\n

For the use of AHAs in the EU, it is necessary to go beyond Regulation (EC) No 1223\/2009 on cosmetic products and rely on the opinions issued by the independent expert committee, the SCCS<\/strong> (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety), to determine permitted levels of use and conditions of use (pH, concentration, sensitive populations).<\/p>\n

Only the two most common ones have been subject to an evaluation<\/strong> (published in 2000 and confirmed in 2004), which concludes that:<\/p>\n